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Below are recommendations for maintaining your computer and keeping it healthy
and happy this should have a positive affect on you, too! I suggest that you print
out this entire page to read it at your convenience.
These are certainly not all one can do and should do, but cover the major concerns
of which everyone should be aware.
If you have any questions regarding any of this information, or have comments
or suggestions, please contact me. I'll add your ideas to
this page.
Where applicable, each section below has specifics for Macintosh computers ("Macs")
and Windows PCs ("PCs").
First, a quick checklist to see if you are doing at least the major tasks to protect
your computer and your data...
Is
your software up to date? This includes your Web browser, email, antivirus, antispyware,
Internet, firewall, Internet security, any prgram that uses the Internet, and Windows
or Mac operating software? Are you continually updating it to make sure all the latest
security patches and updates are in place?
Is
your antispyware software being updated several times a week, providing real-time
protection, and thoroughly scanning your computer at least once a week?
Is
your antivirus software being updated several times a week, running real-time protection,
and thoroughly scanning your computer a few times a week?
Are
you unplugging the power, as well as the telephone cable TV, DSL, and/or satellite
cables to your equipment any time there's a chance for lightning, power problems,
or when you go away?
Are
you backing up (making a copy of on some other media) any and all critical information
on your computer?
Are
you using a surge protector both for the power to your computer equipment, as well
as for the telephone line, cable TV, DSL, and/or satellite cable to your equipment?
Are,
are you using firewall software?
Do
you run disk repair and disk defragmentation software regularly?
If you did not say "YES!" to everyone of these, I highly recommend you
read the appropriate sections below.
Table of Contents
I. Essential
A. Back Up Your Documents / Data
/ Hard Drive
The most important aspect of maintaining your computer is performing a
back-up, that is, copying what's important to you to another media. It is the only
insurance you have if something goes wrong, such as the computer's hardware gets
damaged (such as by lightning), software gets damaged (due to crashes, virus, incompatibilities),
or if the information becomes damaged or deleted.
How many of you perform any kind of regularly back-up, even of a few documents? All
of you that said "I Do!" pat yourself on the back. The rest of you
welcome to the majority of computer users.
If a file becomes corrupted, accidentally deleted, or infected by a virus, and you
don't have an copy of it it's gone. You'll have to find another copy, or recreate
it from scratch. Having a back-up copy solves that problem.
If a hard disk becomes corrupted, infected by a virus, damaged by spyware, or otherwise
unreadable or usable, and you have a back-up of the entire disk you can rest easy,
none of your data is lost (except for anything created or changed since the last
backup).
Unfortunately, viruses exist, files and folders can be accidentally deleted, files
and hard disks can become corrupted, and hard drives can die. It's a fact of working
with computers. So you back up (make a copy of) your work and other things on your
hard disk then if any problems occur, you can recover the necessary pieces from
the back-up, and then go on working.
If you use a computer very often, you can expect to need to use a back-up of your
entire hard disk. If for no other reason, to recover the file, folder, or software
you just erased somehow without realizing it. Recovery is easy assuming you've
recently backed up just copy the deleted items from the latest backup set to your
computer.
1. The Bare Minimum Backup
If you do nothing else, copy any files that you would be devastated if ever lost.
Usually
a flash drive, CD, floppy disk, Zip or Jaz disk will work for this task. Perhaps
even create a second set and store that at another location. Whatever media you use,
take care to store it in a clean, dry place, away from heat, cold, sunlight, moisture,
dust, magnets, and electronic devices.
2. The Basic Minimum Backup
Better yet, copy ALL your document files. You may want to consider backing up
your email, email address book, and Web browser bookmarks and favorites. Don't forget
any pictures, and money management files. Usually a flash drive, CD, DVD, Zip or
Jaz disk will work for this task. In this scenario, you do not back-up:
- application programs these can be restored from the CDs/DVDs they came on (assuming
you still have those).
- the OS (operation system) because it can be reinstalled from the CDs/DVDs that
came with your computer. (Assuming you have those of course. If you do not have the
CDs/DVDs with your computer's OS, it's imperative that you obtain these contact
the source of your computer.)
In this scenario, if your hard disk goes "belly up," at least you've
saved your documents. You will, however have to reinstall the OS and all your applications,
utilities, Internet software, peripheral software and drivers, third-party system
extensions and control panels, etc. All your preferences are lost. And expect to
lose some files for which you did not have originals. This is the risk you take by
not doing a full back-up (see the next section).
3. The Ideal and Recommended Back-up
The ideal, however, is to backup your entire hard disk. This is by far the best
thing to do. If any file, folder, program, etc. goes bad, gets infected or deleted
you're covered. If your hard drive dies or the disk goes bad, and you have to reformat
or get a new one you're covered. It's a very simple way to avoid a major headache
down the road.
(It's still important to make sure you have the disks for your OS and applications
in some cases these need to be reinstalled to get up and running again.)
If you have to restore all the files to your hard disk and you do not have a complete
backup of your hard disk, it's a very large chore to reload the OS, all the applications
and utilities, and all your documents (if you have them backed up), then reestablish
all the preferences for all your control panels, applications, utilities, etc. There
are always things that get lost in that process.
On the other hand, if you have a complete back-up of your hard disk, it's a relatively
simple task to restore everything that was there, JUST the way you left it, preferences,
colors, and all.
How often information on your hard disk changes and its importance determines how
often you should back it up and how many backup sets to make. That, in turn, helps
determine what backup device and backup software you should use.
If you're a regular computer user, try to back up once a week. I also recommend three
back-up sets. One reason is for recovering items deleted a few weeks back...the folder
you trashed without realizing it 2 weeks ago is not lost it's on your oldest backup
set from three weeks ago.
4. Storage Devices and Media
There are lots of different types of drives and storage media to use for backing
up, such as: flash drives, Zip, Jaz, CD-R (write once), CD-RW (rewrite-able, that
is, write many times ), DVD-/+R, DVD-/+RW, tape, external hard drives, and more.
Exploring all the advantages of each is out of the scope of this document. There
are good and bad reasons to use each type of device/media. I would be happy to review
those with you, and help you work out an appropriate backup solution.
Here are some general tips...
- Optical media (CDs, DVDs) is the cheapest per megabyte, and has the best reliability
for future data readability, It is therefore the best for archiving data for long-term
storage.
- Flash drives (USB memory sticks) are very convenient and very portable. Their
long-term reliability is unknown, but they work great for short-term solutions.
- Removable magnetic disks (such as: floppy, Zip, and Jaz disks) are more convenient
than optical media, but are the worst for reliability of data, and the most expensive
cost per megabyte.
- An external hard disk is "in between" optical media and removable magnetic
disks for data reliability and cost per megabyte, yet is the fastest and very convenient
for large amounts of data.
- Tape drive systems the drives and tape cartridges are relatively inexpensive,
tape media itself is adequately reliable, and the tapes are removable (kept separate
from your computer) so they cannot be hurt during electrical problems, viruses,
or other detrimental influences.
MACs
Probably the best mechanism for complete back-up is a USB or FireWire external
hard drive. They are fast, convenient, the media is more reliable than magnetic removable
disks, and the cost is reasonable. You can likely get several complete copies of
your hard disk on an external hard drive. Connecting one is very simple plug it
in, turn it on, and you're ready to go.
With Mac OS 9 and earlier, back-up your entire hard drive was simple, drag your hard
disk icon onto the icon of an external hard drive, wait a few minutes, and it's done
EVERYTHING on your hard disk was backed up!
With Mac OS X (that's a Roman Numeral 10), things changed...
COPY: You CAN still drag your hard disk icon onto the icon of an external hard drive,
and this will back up MOST files. But it will not copy over many hidden files needed
by the operation system (OS) to do its job and that allow it to boot (start up) from
the back-up location. But, this method will copy over everyting else, programs, utilities,
preferences, documents, music, pictures, videoes, etc.
CLONE: To create a back up of you entire hard disk that DOES copy over hidden files
needed by the OS to boot, you need to create what's called a clone. Most better
back-up programs can create a clone. With a clone, you know you have a complete copy
of everything on your hard dirve, the OS included, and you can boot from the clone
back-up. Also, if your main hard disk goes bad, once it's replaced, you can restore
from the clone to your new / fixed hard disk, and then you're up and running.
A clone takes over the entrie hard disk, or if the drive is partitioned, the entire
partition being used.
A few good back-up programs for Mac are SuperDuper
and Intego Personal Backup, both
of which can back-up your whole hard drive to another hard drive, writeable CDs,
writeable DVDs, and more.
There are lots of ways to use an external hard drive to back up your hard disk, with
a combination of clones and back up copies. Here is one idea of many possible...
On your external hard drive, divide it into two partitions. Make one the same
size as the hard disk on your computer. Use this for the clone (which will be made
with back-up software). Use the other partition for copies of your hard disk (put
in date-labeled folders), or regular copies of your Documents folder (for example),
and other things you make manually.
Buy an external hard drive that's large enough to accommodate all this, at least
3 times larger that your total hard disk space.
Keep the external hard drive off and unplugged when not in use therefore, it cannot
be accidentally corrupted, infected by a virus, or affected by power problems or
lightning.
To recover a file(s) or folder(s), simply drag them from the back-up hard drive to
your main hard disk.
To restore from a cloned copy of your hard disk, using the same software that created
the clone, and make a "clone of the clone" FROM the backed up version TO
your main hard disk.
WINDOWS PCs
Probably the best mechanism for complete back-up is a USB or FireWire external
hard drive. They are fast, convenient, the media is more reliable than magnetic removable
disks, and the cost is reasonable. Connecting one is very simple plug it in, turn
it on, and you're ready to go.
A good back-up program for Windows is Norton
Ghost, which can back-up your whole hard drive to another hard drive, writeable
CDs, writeable DVDs, and more.
Keep the external hard drive off and unplugged when not in use therefore, it cannot
be accidentally corrupted, infected by a virus, or affected by power problems or
lightning.
5. Before you perform a backup, do the following:
- Run antivirus and antispyware software (so you do not back up a virus or any
spyware).
- Remove any unneeded software.
- Remove any extraneous files, if you know of any and where they reside. Don't
fill up your backup sets with unnecessary clutter. Remove old email and faxes, go
through those files and folders you've meaning to clean out, then empty the Trash/Recycle
Bin.
- Run any disk repair utilities you have.
B. Run Disk Repair Utility
Software
A very important part of maintaining your computer is regularly running a good
disk repair utility.
I recommend running this software once a week, and more often if you crash a lot.
Ideally it should be run after every crash.
If this is not done, after a while, problems can develop that cause additional crashing
of the computer software, render your hard disk unreadable or unrecognizable, keep
your computer from starting up properly, and/or other strange behavior. Critical
information on the hard disk can become so "corrupted" that the entire
disk will need to erased and reformatted.
MACs
All Macs come with Disk Utility (in Applications/Utilities and it's also on your
System Install disk. There are two choices Repair Disk Permissions and Repair Disk.
Repair Disk Permissions can be run any time. Repair Disk requires you to start up
from your System Install disk and select Disk Utility from tine Installer menu.
Disk Utility cannot repair as much as the third-party products mentioned below, but
if nothing else, it can alert you to problems that need to be fixed. (And it's possible
that it might fix some things the other programs cannot....)
Third-party Products
Disk Warrior from AlSoft
is an excellent product creating a new optimized disk directory (catalog). Instead
of attempting to repair a disk's directory (as some products can only do), Disk Warrior
builds a new (and optimized) directory. It is recommended to run Disk Warrior regularly
as preventative medicine.
Another good choice is Techtool
Pro 4 from MicroMat whose basic
features are:
- create a new optimized disk directory (catalog) like Disk
Warrior. This is crucial capability, and an excellent preventative measure.
- disk repair utilities
- disk optimization
- a "whole slough" of other test and fix utilities
WINDOWS PCs
Windows PC's come with a disk repair utility called ScanDisk. In Windows
XP and Vista, this utility is called Error Checking (as well as CHKDSK).
Third-party utilities are also available, such as Norton
Utilities from Symantec,
which usually offer more features and capabilities.
How to perform disk error checking
in Windows XP
Details about using ScanDisk:
- Before running ScanDisk, it's a good idea to run Disk Cleanup, which is in: Start
| (All) Programs | Accessories | System Tools.
- ScanDisk does not like having any other programs running at the same time, even
"background programs." Therefore, before running ScanDisk, quit all programs
you have running, turn off any screen savers, and then press Ctrl+Alt+Delete. In
the dialog window that appears, perform an End Task operation on all programs except
Explorer and Systray.
- NOTE: ScanDisk may not run properly if other hidden programs are still running,
the hard disk is severely damaged, or the hard disk is in sore need of Disk
Defragmenting. If ScanDisk does not run properly for you, start up your computer
in Safe Mode and then run ScanDisk. (See How
to restart Windows 9x or Windows Me in Safe Mode for details.) If you still have
problems, please consult your local computer consultant. [When finished in Safe Mode,
restart your computer to use all your normal software.]
- To run ScanDisk, go to Start | Programs | Accessories | System Tools | ScanDisk.
(In Windows XP, you'll need open My Computer, right click on the icon for the drive
you want to check, and choose Properties. In the Error-checking section of the window,
click on the Check Now... button.)
- Always check the box for "Automatically Fix Errors" in the ScanDisk
window.
- Notice that there are two modes to ScanDisk: Standard and Thorough. (In
Windows XP, the Thorough is selected by check the Scan for bad sectors check box.
Otherwise you are using the Standard mode.) The Standard is the one you want to run
most of the time, perhaps once a week and after an type of crash or forced restart.
Thorough takes much longer and should be run perhaps once every month,and ALWAYS
before you run Disk Defragmenter. The Thorough mode scans
the surface of your hard disk's media for errors. If your hard disk is going bad,
this should tell you by finding bad sectors.
- Also, avoid using your mouse while running ScanDisk.
C. Run Antivirus Software
For Windows computers, in addition to the 100,000 or so adware and spyware programs,
there are now over 100,000 viruses out there attacking them.
For Macintoshes and other computers not running Windows, fortunately, there only
very few viruses, and no adware and spyware. Still, for Macs, there is a need for
antivirus software because of the few viruses out there for the Mac, OS (operating
system) and the cross-platform viruses that attack via documents created with Microsoft
Office products, such as Word, Excel, and PowerPoint.
Most of today's (Windows) viruses are now so widespread, and/or can do very serious
damage, that having up-to-date anti-virus software is an absolute must.
Up-to-date anti-virus software means that the software is regularly upgraded, as
well as updated with the latest virus information. At least for Windows users, antivirus
software is probably the most important program you can run.
If you ever:
- insert a floppy disk, CD, DVD, Zip disk, Jaz disk, flash drive, or any other
removable device in your computer
- download software
- install software
- receive email
- view Web sites
- share files and/or access rights with another computer
- use any type of network
you make your computer vulnerable to viruses. Fortunately, the solution is simple
and inexpensive prevent the viruses from infecting your system in the first place
by installing and regularly updating the best anti-virus software you can find.
The better anti-virus software can be set up to automatically scan all aspects of
your computer and your activity on it. This includes, but it no limited to, the scanning
of email (both incoming and outgoing), Web site temp files, downloaded files, removable
media such as floppies, CDs, Zip disks, etc., and certain areas of your hard disk.
New viruses are created often, so it is imperative that your anti-virus software
be updated regularly to counteract all new viruses. We now recommend updating every
week, or more. This is especially true for users of any Microsoft products, such
as: Windows, Microsoft Outlook, Microsoft Outlook Express, Microsoft Internet Explorer,
Windows Mail, ad Microsoft Office software, such as Word, Excel, and PowerPoint.
Using non-Microsoft products makes you much less vulnearble to attack.
We recommend antivirus programs that regularly update themselves while you are on
the Internet. Even with these, it's a good idea to manually run their update feature
about once a week to make sure the updates are happening.
Each time after you have updated your anti-virus software, you should scan your entire
hard disk(s) for viruses. Second best is to set up your antivirus software to automatically
scan you hard disk, at least twice a week.
It is also very important to run anti-virus software before backing up your hard
disk. You sure don't want to backup a virus!
You also to regularly update your Internet software (Web browser, email program,
etc.), as the vendors of this software are constantly updating them to fix security
and virus problems, and other bugs.
You also want to watch for and install updates to your OS (operating system, like
Windows or Mac OS) as they become available. (See the Windows Update or Mac OS Software
Update feature on your computer.)
These days, using a computer with Windows on the Internet exposes your computer to
the worst the computing world has to offer. According to Symantec, Windows uses can
expect to be attacked in well under a minute once connected to the Internet. Using
an OS (operating system) like Linux or Macs is infinitely safer. This is mostly because
those that write viruses and other "malware" target the Windows operating
system and other Microsoft software (such as Internet Explorer, Outlook, Outlook
Express, and many of the Office products) because these products are on most of the
world's computers (85 to 90% ?).
Preventative Measures:
Here are some preventative measures you can take to help avoid viruses (and/or related
problems):
- Most viruses these days are written to take advantage of Microsoft products:
Windows, Internet Explorer, Outlook and Outlook Express, Word, Excel, Visual
Basic, etc. Using alternative programs may very likely help avoid viruses specifically
targeted for those programs. Begin by using alternative Internet software other
Web browsers like Firefox, and email programs like Thunderbird or Eudora.
- Most viruses now spread via email and come in the form of attachments (files
attached to the email message), therefore...
- Be suspicious of any unexpected email, whether you know the sender or not.
- Be very suspicious of any mail from unknown senders containing attachments, very
suspicious of any mail from unknown senders containing attachments,
- Be cautious with attachments even from people you know they may have accidentally
sent you a virus. (Many of today's viruses automatically send themselves to you from
a friend's computer, since you are in their address book!)
- NEVER open any attachment you are not 100% certain about who it's from AND what
it's about AND are expecting it. If uncertain, ask the sender if they intended to
send you that attachment.
- Any email attachment should be saved to your computer first, then scanned with
up-to-date anti-virus software (that's true for downloaded software, as well). Do
a search on the name of your attachment at the Google
search engine to see if it's part of a known virus.
- Do not open ANY attachment with a double extension, like: info.doc.pif. Note
that Microsoft Explorer, Internet Explorer, Outlook and other software may hide the
second extension so "filename.jpg.exe" may appear as an ordinary "filename.jpg"
file.
- A virus needs executable code or a macro (like those used in Word and Excel documents)
to run. Therefore, some attachments are safe and others are not.
- Some attachments that are safe (as of this writing, and assuming a double filename
extension is not being used): JPG and GIF graphics files, PDF and pure TXT (text)
documents.
- Attachments that can contain a virus: those with a Windows extension such as
.exe, .com, .bat, pif, .scr, .vbs or .vbx (the last two are the extensions for Microsoft's
Visual Basic script). Note that Windows executable files cannot be run on a Macintosh,
making the Mac a much safer machine to use.
- Here is a list of potentially unsafe file extensions, as of 10/2001:
ad, adp, asp, bas, bat, chm, cmd, com, cpl, crt, exe, hlp, hta, inf, ins, isp, js,
jse, lnk, mdb, mde, msc, msi, msp, mst, pcd, pif, reg, scr, sct, shb, shs, url, vb,
vbe, vbs, vsd, vss, vst, vsw, ws, wsc, wsf, wsh
- If your email program is set to automatically open or run attachments, turn that
feature OFF, NOW! You must be the one to decide to run these, or not.
- Even if you think an attachment is safe, do not open it from within email. Instead,
save it to your desktop (or other convenient location), then scan it with your antivirus
software before opening it.(Is your antivirus software up to date for virus definitions?)
- Disable the email message preview pane in your email software. This prevents
the message from being opened and read upon merely clicking on it, thus preventing
a virus from running, or a Webbot identifying your address as real and thus sending
you more virus-laden or junk email.
- Enable macro virus protection in your Microsoft Office products like Word and
Excel.
- From the VIRUS WARNINGS AND VIRUS INFO
page:
- Delete immediately all E-Mails with attachments, without opening/reading, that
have no or obviously false sender's addresses (like "Ha Ha Ha", typical
for the Snowwhite Virus).
- Do not open attachments without verification that they were sent intentionally.
Throw out and delete these attachments (to avoid inadvertent undeleting).
- Switch off automatic execution (opening) features of your E-Mail software and/or
browser, switch off "Script" function of Word.
- Don't use email software that cannot switch off automatic opening.
- Use caution with software specially prone to virus problems (i.e. Internet Explorer
with Visual Basic, Word/Office, Outlook). Highest risk is with Windows operating
systems (OS), lower with Mac OS, lowest with Unix/Linux OS and old MS-DOS/Win 3.x.
- If you have positively identified a virus and you know the sender's address (use
"reply to" but make sure not to include the attachment again!), send them
a virus warning of the type: "The attachment of following mail I received from
you contains the ...(name) Virus!"
- Verify the validity of any email you receive. This is true for anything you receive
in email, but especially for virus warnings.
- A classic one is the so-called SULFNBK.EXE virus. It's actually a real file needed
by Windows, but there was an email going around saying it's a virus, and if you have
it, delete. (By the way, if you accidentally delete "SULFNBK.EXE" from
your computer, go here to
find out how to restore it.)
- A great place to verify viruses is the Google
search engine. Just entire the name of the virus, or a key element of it, the word
"virus" and see what you get. Also, if it's a real virus, you should find
it at the Symantec Antivirus Response Center,
among other sites. And see Viruses,
Myths, Hoaxes, Scams, Spams, Etc. for more details on viruses, hoaxes, and more.
- When sending email to a list of recipients, always use BCC (blind carbon copy).This
prevents your recipients from having to scroll through the list of recipients, protects
the privacy of the recipients, prevents junk email senders from picking up all the
addresses, but most important these days, does not expose the recipients to viruses
that will to send themselves to any email address it finds in any email message,
and in any file on a computer.
- Because of the growing number of email filters that are rejecting email based
on the HTML content (due to the possibility of a virus embedded in the code) we now
recommend folks not use HTML formatted message instead, switch to all plain text
messages. It's also still somewhat true that not email programs can read HTML formatted
message properly, so this will ensure all recipients will be able to read your mail.
- Update your Internet software. Security holes and other problems are being fixed
all the time. This should be done regularly. Microsoft products tend to need more
updating. Here are the needed links:
- Update your operating system software, which should be done regularly a least
once a month, especially Windows. Repeat this process several times. One update may
lead to others. When you've installed all updates, you'll get a message telling you
so. Security holes and other problems are being fixed all the time. See below for
specific links.
- Visit the Symantec Anti-virus Resource Center
for details (including removal instructions) for any virus.
- In a few cases, just viewing an email message can give you a virus. Delete any
message you feel is suspicious.
MACs
Here are some good anti-virus program choices for Macs:
- Antivirus Software:
- Norton Anti-virus for the Mac from Symantec
- Virus Definition File Updates from:
- Virus Definition File Updates from:
- Apple Software
- See your Software Update Control Panel / System Preference. This should
be run regularly, like once a week. And it would not hurt to run it manually once
a month, as well.
- Do not install software from untrusted sources, especially if that software comes
as an installer package and requests your administrators password.
- General software site
- Mac OS site
- Service and Support Sites
WINDOWS PCs
Here are recommended anti-virus programs and other needed items:
- Free online virus scanners:
- Avast!
- BitDefender
- Computer Associates
- F-Secure
- Kaspersky Lab
- McAfee
- Panda Software
- RAV
- Symantec's Norton Anti-virus
- Trend Micro
- VirusTotal
- Commercial Software
- Kaspersky Lab's AntiVirus
- Symantec's Norton Anti-virus
- Zonelab's ZoneAlarm Antivirus
- Free Software:
- AntiVir
Persona lEdition Classic from Avira
- Avast! Home Edition
- AVG
Antivirus software from Grisoft
- ClamWin
- eSafe from Aladdin Knowledge Systems
- Free. Provides unique proactive anti-virus protection, and the eSafe
suite of products protects networks from malicious vandals (Java, ActiveX, and scripts),
enabling businesses to restrict access to vital system files, stops access to Web
sites with inappropriate or malicious content, and restricts users from sending outgoing
email with classified or prohibited content. eSafe uses Total Sandbox QuarantinTM
protection against all forms of malicious content including viruses, vandals and
worms. Because eSafe controls and manages both known and unknown content security
threats, businesses are free to use the full functionality of the Internet without
incurring the costs of inadequate network protection.
- eTrust software from Computer Associates
- Content
Inspection, Personal Edition -Scan email attachments for file types most commonly
used by virus writers, and monitors executables while they run.
- Mail
Watcher - Alerts users of suspicious behavior and can stop email generation by
viruses.
- InoculateIT Personal Edition Program,
from Computer Associates - Protection from the latest viruses and worms can be downloaded
free from Computer Associates. All for free and free updates.
- SurfinGuard
from Finjan Software - Free. Proactively prevents malicious code. SurfinGuard
Pro represents a proactive way to combat unknown Trojan horses, Internet worms and
hostile Web pages based on code behavior, rather than traditional anti-virus programs
that uses static signature recognition.
- ThreatFire Antivirus - Free.
Detect viruses based on their behaviour and works well with other antivirus programs.
- Updates:
- Windows
- See Windows Update in your Start Menu. This should be run at least once
a month. Be sure to install at least the Critical Updates.
- Microsoft TechNet
Security - Security issues with Microsoft products.
- Windows
98 Second Edition Shutdown Supplement - Addresses shutdown issues on systems
with specific hardware/software configurations running Windows 98 Second Edition.
These issues include systems restarting when selecting shutdown and systems hanging
on shutdown.
- Windows Update Home Page
- WindowsTracker.com - Offers hourly
updates of Windows applications along with automated email updates and a searchable
database of thousands of applications.
D. Run Antispyware Software
Perhps now worse than antivirus software, the need to run anti-adware/ anti-spyware
software is of very critical importance for Windows users.
Today's freeware, shareware, cookies, media players, interactive content,
and file sharing can contain code that allows their authors collect and spread information
about those using them. Known as spyware, it can track your Internet using habits,
share this data with a third party, hijack your browser start page, alter important
system files, and can do this without your knowledge or permission. In fact, just
Web browsing innocently, spyware can install itself on your machine and do its dirty
work.
Learn more about it:
Over a short time, all Windows users will aquire, without their knowledge, some form
of adware and/or spyware.
Be aware of any pop-up ad trying to seel you anti-adware/ apyware software - it is
very like adware/ apyware itself! Here is a list of some of the known rogue anti-apyware:
Rogue / Suspect
Anti-Spyware - Information about many sub-standard products that you ought to
avoid.
MACs
At this time, none of the prevalent spyware programs are written for Macintosh.
Nonetheless, here are a few Mac spyware removers:
Be sure to visit the software's site regularly to fetch the latest version of
the program.
WINDOWS PCs
It's hightly recommended to run several anti-spyware programs, as no program
is 100% effective. Update and run any anti-spyware software you have at least
twice a month, and more often if you are a heavy Internet user. Some experts say
to run each at least twice, then restart your computer and run them again, to be
clean. You can also (or may need to) run these programs again while in Safe Mode
to be completely thorough.
It's imperative you run one program from Batch 1 below. Follow up by also
runing all or most programs from Batch 2 (which are all free).
Be sure to visit each vendor's site regularly to download the latest version of each
program.
The Windows Registry stores core information about all the software on your hard
disk. Because of the way adware/spyware modifies the Registry, and anti-adware/anti-spyware
removes Registry entries during their removal process (and because it's a good thing
to do regularly, anyway), after running your arsenal of anti-adware/anti-spyware,
we recommend running a good Registry repair program, see our Rebuild
Windows Registry section.
Batch 1. Choose one of these (there are very similar). They are rated the
best and have very good constant real-time protection. They also automatically update
themselves, and offer a scheduled scan feature. (You can install and run both if
you like, but if you do, disable real-time protection in one of them.)
- The anti-spyware module of Panda
Internet Security Suite 2008 may be the best at the moment for spyware blocking,
detecting, and removal. But there are other suites that may be a better choice as
they offer better firewall and anitvirus modules; see our Security
Suites section.
- Spyware Doctor 5.5
from PC Tools (also offers an optional anti-virus
module feature.) May require rebooting in Safe Mode and running a fill scan to complete
detect and remove spyware. (PC Mac, 4/2008, p44)
- SpySweeper
from Webroot Software (also offers an optional
anti-virus module feature.)
Batch 2. We recommend following up with all or most of these:
- Ad-Aaware from
Lavasoft. Adaware is free, but there are
also bigger versions which you pay for which contain additional features,
such as a real-time detection / prevention features.
- CWShredder
- A small utility for removing CoolWebSearch (aka CoolWwwSearch, YouFindAll,
White-Pages.ws and a dozen other names). Spybot S&D and Ad-aware may not always
remove all of these.
- Spybot - Search & Destroy (5 cow rating from Tucows)
- Free. Turn on the TeaTimer option to prevent critical changes to the Registry.
- SpyCatcher
Express from Tenebril - free. Almost all the features of the full version
(see below).
- Spyware Doctor, Starter Edition from PC
Tools Free! Does not offer as complete real-time protection as the full version,
and only allows email support, but otherwise offers full scan and removal of threats,
and basic real-time protection. It's available free as part of the Google
Pack.
- Windows
Defencder from Microsoft (Beta version) - Only because it's free.
For Windows XP Service Pack 2 or later. It has some mild real-time protection.
Other spyware removers / tools include:
- AVG Anti-Spyware, Free Edition
from Grisoft
- SpyCatcher from Tenebril.
- HiackThis
- a free utility which quickly scans your Windows computer to find settings that
may have been changed by spyware, malware or other unwanted programs. HijackThis
creates a report, or log file, with the results of the scan. IMPORTANT: HijackThis
does not determine what is good or bad. Do not make any changes to your computer
settings unless you are an expert computer user. Advanced users can use HijackThis
to remove unwanted settings or files. Not an expert? Just save the HijackThis report
and let a friend with more troubleshooting experience take a look. A large community
of users participates in online forums, where experts help interpret HijackThis scan
results to clean up infected computers. For answers to some common questions about
HijackThis please visit the HiJackThis
FAQs page.
- Forums (consult before doing or deleting anything)
- Tutorial
- Pest Patrol - Detects and removes
spyware, adware, trojans, hacker tools, and other pests that anti-virus, firewall
and other security software can miss. Home version: $40. See their free,
online pest scanner.
- Prevx1 Individual - It's community
database lets it ignore known good files and jail known bad ones, while behavior
analysis spots unknown baddies. Its protection is effective, but you'll still want
a signature-based product to clean up malware fully.
- Primary Response
SafeConnect Works alongside your standard security protection programs.
Detects malicious software by behavior, so it can recognize brand-new threats before
signatures exist.
- SpySubtract
from Intermute - 30-day free trial available.
Otherwise, $30.
- SpywareBlaster
(Free) - Prevent spyware from installing in the first place!
- SpywareGuard
(Free) - Provides a real-time protection solution against spyware that is a great
addition to SpywareBlaster's protection method.
- Trend
Micro AntiSpyware - $30
- ZoneLabs' ZoneAlarm
AntiSpyware - $30
- See also: the Spyware
Cleaners page at Tucows
Free online spyware scanners:
General spyware related sites:
Remove Rootkits:
Among the most difiicult of all "malware" to detect and eliminate are
rootkits. Below are some tools to help.
E. Run Firewall Software
Being connected to the Internet (a network of networks) allows the potential for
others to access to your computer if not properly protected. Until recently, this
has not been a large concern for those with a dial-up connection. However, with today's
new threats of "malware" worms, trojans horses, viruses, and spyware/adware
there is a greatly likelihood for users of all types of connections that someone
can access your computer "without permission" and all the information on
it. They can potentially view, change, or delete any information or software on your
computer. They can run any program of their choice on your computer. Some hackers
may not actually look at or disturb your files, but use your computer to access other
computers (such as those running Web sites) with malicious intent. And not all Internet
Service Providers are acknowledging the real security threat these connections allow
for fear of loss of business.
It is therefore imperative to install some form of firewall software. A firewall
allows you access the Internet, but attempts to disallow other Internet users/software
to come into your computer or access the Internet without your consent.
- See for General and Detailed Reference:
Home PC Firewall Guide - An excellent
site! Provides detailed resource guide to cable modem, DSL, and dial-up Internet
security hacker protection for home and SOHO computer users. Details and links to
reviews of many software and hardware solutions.
A Note about Hardware Firewalls
As mentioned in the 8/3/2004 issue of PC Magazine,
page 86, or see this
Web page, "even if you only have one computer connected to a broadband Internet
connection, you should deploy a router." This is because most routers today
protect your computer safely behind what's called a NAT Firewall. Many good configuration
tips for the router are given in that article.
This hardware type of firewall is recommended in addition to a software
firewall program covered in this section.
Note that if you share your broadband Internet connection with other computers, you
are likely already behind a router.
MACs
Turn on your Mac's built in firewall (Apple has this turned off by default).
OS 10.4, (Tiger) In the Sharing System Preference, select the Firewall tab.
Click the Start button to turn on the firewall. This blocks all incoming connections.
In the Allow list below the Start button, check the boxes next to the applications
(if any) that need to accept connections.
OS 10.5 (Leopard) In the Security System Preference, select the Firewall
tab.
Most people should choose "Allow only essential services." This blocks
most incoming connections. A few services will still accept connections, such as
system updates from Apple. The firewall may block some applications you want to use,
but wen you start those, you'll be prompted to allow incoming connections. If you
allow a connection, it will put that application on a safe list.
Or, you can also add applications to a safe list manually. Click the + near the bottom
of the window and will open a list of applications. Select the one you want, and
click Add and it will be added to the list. Make sure it reads "Allow incoming
connections" next to the application name.
You can also select "Set access for specific services and applications"
custom setting. You'll have to set allowed and blocked applications manually. Click
the + near the bottom of the window and it will open a list of applications. Select
the one you want, and click Add. Then choose either "Allow incoming connections"
or "Block incoming connections."
You can also isntall thrid-party Personal Firewall Software, which may do a more
thorough job than Apple's built-in firewall:
WINDOWS PCs
Turn File Sharing and Printer Sharing OFF.
Windows XP users have Internet Connection Firewall (ICF) software built in to the
operating system. To turn on ICF, open the the Network Connection control panel,
right click on the icon for your Internet connection, and select Properties from
the menu. Click on the Advanced tab. The very first item should be the Internet Connection
Firewall section with a checkbox that says, "Protect my computer and network..."
Be sure this checkbox is checked, then click OK.
Windows XP users who install an additional software firewall program should disable
ICF as multiple software firewalls can cause conflicts.
A few of the many personal firewall software programs available:
F. Security Suites
Security suites are convenient, as they combine many of the essential security aspects
you need into one program. For Macs, this usually inlcudes: anti-virus and firewall,
and likely includes anti-spam, parental control, and privacy control. For Windows,
this usually inlcudes: anti-virus, anti-spyware, and firewall, and likely includes
anti-spam, parental control, and privacy control. Some standalone programs may be
better at specific protection, however. (PC Magazine articles helped with much of
the following Windows inforamtion, 3/24/08)
MACs
Internet Security Barrier from
Intego
- NetBarrier X5: Firewall protects your Mac from Internet attacks
- VirusBarrier X5: The acclaimed antivirus program for Mac
- Personal Backup X5: Meets all your backup needs
Norton
Internet Security 3.0 for Macintosh
- Antivirus protection
- Internet worm protection
- Personal firewall
- Privacy protection
- Parental control
WINDOWS PCs
First Choices:
Norton
Internet Security 2008
- Very good antispyware..Spyware Doctor 5.5, PC Mag's top choice for standalone
antispyware, scored slightly higher, while Panda Internet Security 2008 scored a
perfect 10 for antispyware.
- Very strong, unobtrusive firewall.
- Very good antivirus protection.
- Good privacy control.with its Identity Safe.
- Cannot recommend its antispam module, it filtered out too much valid personal
eamil.
- Can be a resource hog.
ZoneAlarm
Internet Security 7
- Very strong firewall, fairly unobtrusive.
- Very good antispyware.
- Very good antivirus protection
- Very good antispam module.
- Very good privacy control.
Norton 360 version 2.0
- Tailored mostly for the non-techie. Does a lot of it work quietly in the backgroiund
during idle time.
- Very good antivirus protection.
- Very good antispyware, although NIS 2008 scored a little better. Spyware Doctor
5.5, PC Mag's top choice for standalone antispyware, scored slightly higher yet,
and Panda Internet Security 2008 scored a perfect 10 for antispyware.
- Good privacy control.with its Identity Safe.
- Very strong, unobtrusive firewall.
- Good privacy control.with its Identity Safe.
- Includes a fairly good backup module; backup to
many types of media, even online, manually or automatically. Open files are note
backed up, and the software doesn't keep previous versions of backed-up files!
- Offers automatic but "gentle" Registry fixes.
- Pretty high false positive rate in its antispam module.
- Parental control was just rudimentary.
- It's recommeded that you run the standalone Norton Security Scan in Safe Mode
to clean up you system before you do the installation.
- Can be a resource hog.
Second Choices:
- Panda
Internet Security Suite 2008 Its anti-spyware module may, at the moment,
be the best for any anti-spyware program out there for blocking, detecting, and removing
spyware. Its antivirus module is quite good, the firewall is OK efficient without
a lot of pestering. Other modules not so hot. But, its anti-spyware module is likley
the "serious spyware killer for 2008" (PC Mag, 2/2008, p74).
Third Choices:
- Bit
Defender Total Security 2008 - Very Good performance with antivirus and antispam,
Good performance for antispyware, OK performance for firewall.
- F-Secure Internet Security
2008 - Good to OK performance on the three main pieces: antivirus, antispyware,
and firewall.
- Kaspersky
Internet Security 7.0 - Only if you increase the protection level from the defaults
in 12 areas , will you then get Good performance on the three main pieces: antivirus,
antispyware, and firewall. Firewall confirmation pop-up feature turned off by defaulta
poor choice. And with it on, it can ask a lot of questions.
G. Use a UPS (Uninterruptable Power
Supply)
If you ever have power outages where you live, or have electrical voltage dips, brownouts,
spikes, surges, and/or transients in your electric service (I don't know anyone that
doesn't), I recommend purchasing a UPS (Uninterruptable Power Supply). These use
a battery to provide power for a few minutes (usually 5 to 20 depending on the UPS
and equipment connected to it), which is more than enough time for you to realize
there's a power outage, save all your work, and shutdown your computer equipment.
They are have surge protection built in.
Most computer equipment cannot handle much of a change in voltage, let alone a power
outage. They merely shut off. When that happens, you LOSE all unsaved work. And if
you happen to be writing to the hard disk during that time, it's conceivable that
the file catalog and/or hard disk device driver can become corrupt. If that happens,
it could spell big trouble. (But if you have disk repair software, and a recent backup
as already recommended, you have likely way "out of the woods" towards
a happy system again, should that happen.)
UPSs are very reasonably priced, and start at around $90. Good ones are from APC
and Tripp Lite. These have an equipment coverage
policy too, in case it's their fault your equipment (which was properly connected
to the UPS) is damaged. Buy one that has jacks for a phone line, too to help protect
the modem, and all the equipment attached to it.
Whether you have a UPS, Line Conditioner, Surge Protector, or not, you should
always Unplug Your Equipment for Lightning Protection, as
covered below.
H. Surge Protectors
If you don't install a UPS, at least get the best surge protector
available (like those from Tripp Lite and
APC). These may cost a bit more (perhaps $50),
but are real protectors, not like the "dime-store" variety power
strips that claim some suppression. They also offer an equipment coverage policy
in case it's their fault your equipment is damaged.
Be sure to buy a surge protector that has jacks for a phone line, too to help protect
the modem, and all the equipment attached to it. More damage appears to come through
the phone line than from the AC power lines.
If you have DSL, run the phone line through the surge protector, then go through
a DSL splitter to your DSL equipment and phone equipment. (If you happen to notice
a large change in DSL speed, the surge protector may introduce unwanted noise on
the line. See if removing the the surge protector from the picture fixes that, or
not.)
If you use Cable Internet or Satellite, buy a surge protector that includes protection
for coax cable, such as:
Consider buying a surge protector for your whole house from your power company.
These installed near the meter (typically), cover all you appliances and electronics,
and carry an equipment coverage policy in case the protector fails or a surge too
strong for it to handle occurs.
For some details about surges and surge protectors, see: "Basic
information on surge protection" from Cherryland Electric Cooperative.
A Note about Surge Protectors Don't buy the surge protector product if it doesn't
carry a UL 1449 rating (330 volts at 500 amperes) for power circuits or the UL 497A
rating (200 volts clamping) for communication circuits! Source: Surge Protectors
"Don't Forget To Shut
The Back Door!"
Whether you have a UPS, Line Conditioner, Surge Protector, or not, you should always
Unplug Your Equipment for Lightning Protection, as covered
below.
I. Modem and Computer Protection
Modems (built-in or external, dial-up, cable, DSL, satellite) are very sensitive
to electrical fluctuations such as spikes, surges, voltage dips, and brownouts (not
to mention lightning strikes!). If you are not using a UPS or
line conditioner, and even if you run it through a surge
protector, it's ideal if you can keep your modem off and unpluggied when not
in use to ensure they are not disturbed by any electrical oddities. (This is not
possible with a built-in modem, and can be inconvenient for a cable, DSL, or Satellite
modem if they have no on-off switch.)
Nonetheless, it's very important for the sately of your equipment and the data on
that equipment, that if conditions are such that any electrically odd behavior can
occurr such as heavy wind, rain, ice, snow ,or stormy conditions, or peak times
in the summer or you are already experiencing your house lights start dimming and/or
brightening, or other electrical odd behavior occurring, that you:
- turn off your external modem (if you have one).
- turn off, shutdown, and unplug the power to your computer any other electrical
equipment you want to protect,
- AND unplug any phone line, cable TV line, or satellite cable coming to your computer,
modem, or other equipment you want to protect.
Whether you have a UPS, Line Conditioner, Surge Protector, or not, you should
always Unplug Your Equipment for Lightning Protection, as
covered below.
J. Unplug Your Equipment for
Lightning (and Surge) Protection
The makers of the better surge protectors (like TrippLite and
APC ) offer models that claim to handle lightning
strikes, and have an equipment coverage policy if it's their fault for any damage.
However, these may not be able to handle all cases of lightning strikes, for example,
direct strikes to your home or business. And even though these companies do insure
your equipment, do you really want to go through all the hassles involved, buying
new equipment, and restoring and/or reinstalling all your software and document files?
A much simpler and cheaper "insurance policy" is available...
All you need do is unplug a few things any time you are aware that lightning is occurring,
about or likely to occur, and when you leave your home or business for very long:
- Depending on the type of Internet connection you have, unplug the phone line,
cable TV line, or satellite line coming INTO your (dial-up or DSL) modem or computer.
Lightning can easily come through the phone line, cable TV line, or satellite line
and "fry" your modem and possibly anything else connected to it (computer,
monitor, printer, scanner, Zip drive, phone, FAX machine, etc.).
- Unplug the power to any and all computer equipment: CPU, monitor, printer, scanner,
Zip drive, (dial-up or DSL) modem, speakers, etc. (It's a good idea to unplug your
TV and stereo equipment as well.) If you plug your equipment into a surge
protector (highly recommended), then you only have to unplug that from the wall.
- For those Macintosh computers with alkaline clock batteries, see the special section below about unplugging power to your computer.
- Reminder: Did you unplug the power and phone line to your dial-up or DSL modem?
They are VERY sensitive to electrical fluctuations and oddities, and lightning eats
them alive.
Make it convenient, or you won't do it. Set up so you only need to unplug one
or two plugs to cover all the electrical connection to your whole computer system,
and one phone line, cable TV line, or satellite line. Make this a regular habit.
You will be glad you did this should anything happen.
Special Section: Mac users with alkaline
clock batteries
Macintosh users, the following Macs and Mac Clones use alkaline clock batteries:
Macs
20th Anniversary Macintosh
Performa 500 Series (some. not all)
Macintosh LC 520 (some. not all)
Macintosh 550 (some. not all)
Macintosh 575
Performa 580CD
Macintosh LC580
Performa 630 series
Performa 640 series
Macintosh LC 630
Macintosh LC 630 DOS
Quadra 630
Mac Clones
Motorola StarMax 3000 Series
Motorola StarMax 4000 Series
UMax C500
UMax C600 |
 |
Power Macintosh 4400 series
Power Macintosh 5000 series
Performa 5200 series
Performa 5300 series
Performa 5400 series
Performa 6200 series
Performa 6300 series
Performa 6400 series
Power Macintosh 6400 series
Power Macintosh 6500 series
Power Macintosh 7220
Quadra 630 |
|
If you have one of these machines, take note!
Alkaline batteries are in an approximately 1"x 1" black plastic box (maybe
5/8" tall) with Velcro on the bottom , and short wire with 3-hole connector.
Most are Rayovac 840, or made by Rayovac.
With a new computer and if you use the Mac everyday, you might see as much as 5 year
life. However, the average usage life is 2 to 3 years, and the shelf-life (uninstalled)
is 2 years. And with an unplugged Mac, the life may one be a matter of months!
If your use the computer for many years, expect battery life to slowly get worse.
Preserving Alkaline Batteries
- Use a surge protector for the power cable AND the phone line or coax Cable TV
or Satellite cable.
- Use the Mac regularly. Do no leave sitting off for long periods of time (months).
If you do, battery may discharge. If it does not start up afterwards, you probably
need a new battery.
- When not using the Mac, keep it plugged into the surge protector, and keep the
surge protector on.
- Never leave Mac unplugged (or surge protector off) for long periods of time (months).
If you do, the battery will likely fully discharge (you will need a new one).
- When not using the Mac unplug the phone line or coax Cable TV or Satellite cable
from the INPUT side of the surge protector.
- If there is any chance of lightning, turn off the surge protector and unplug
it from the wall. After the danger has passed, plug the surge protector back in and
turn it on.
- Any peripherals (scanner, printers, Zip drives, external modems) that you have
connected to the Mac, make sure they are off or their power unplugged when the Mac
is not in use.
- Avoid any type of "thermal cycling" of the computer, that is, exposing
it to repeated temperature extremes.
Your computer should be plugged into a constant A/C power source. The A/C power source
will supply a trickle charge to the battery even when the computer is turned off
and extend the battery's life for years. Do not turn off the computer from a wall
switch, power strip switch, or surge protector switch, because as the battery is
in constant use. Turning off the computer can shorten the battery's life dramatically.
Other things that can affect PRAM battery life are a malfunctioning power supply
or a system with significant additional RAM or peripherals that cannot be supported
by the original power supply.
Alkaline batteries can be adversely affected by the high temperatures found inside
the CPU case. This is called "thermal wear-out." Another thing thing that
can affect battery life is when external peripherals like Jazz and Zip drives, modems
and FAX machines are left turned on when the CPU is turned off. This apparently induces
a bias condition on the system board via the serial port. The result is that the
PRAM battery drains faster.
See also: Is Your Clock Battery Going Bad?
References - Thanks to these sites and people:
Apple/Macintosh Desktop
PRAM Battery FAQ
Barry at: http://www.epower2go.biz/
Desktop Mac Batteries
PRAM Battery Types Used
in Macintosh Desktop Systems
StarMax
Troubleshooting: Power and PRAM Issues
Surge Protectors "Don't
Forget To Shut The Back Door!"
II. Recommended
A. Rebuild Key Catalog Files: MACs
Desktop Database & Disk Catalog / Windows Windows Registry file
MACs
The hidden Desktop Database Files I mention here, are, unfortunately, confusingly
named. They don't really have much to do with your desktop at all. But one of their
functions is to assign the proper icon to documents. The document icon you see on
the desktop, or in any folder, ties it to the application that created the document,
or from which you last saved it. For example, you are able to double-click on a Microsoft
Word document, and have the document open within Word, because of information stored
in the Desktop Database Files. They also store information about all the files on
your hard disk.
The Desktop Database Files should be regularly (one a month, perhaps) rebuilt to
keep your Mac happy.
Apple's method to do this is to hold down the Option and Command keys
when restarting your computer. Wait for a message window to ask if you are sure you
want to rebuild the desktop on your hard disk, then say, OK.
Techtool Pro from MicroMat includes tools to delete and rebuild
the Desktop Database Files from scratch, said to be more efficient than Apple's method
mentioned above.
Another key catalog file that should regularly be fixed or replaced is the hidden
disk directory. This is covered above in Run Disk Repair Utility
Software.
WINDOWS PCs
As you use you computer and add (and delete) software, you may notice your computer
slowing down. In addition to many other steps mentioned in the document, here some
other steps you can use to tune-up your machine.
- Remove any unneeded software. Doing this properly removes all the program's
files and all the program's entries from the Windows Registry. Here are the recommended
methods:
- Run the program's installer and see if an uninstall feature is offered.
- Look in Start | Programs | program group for an uninstaller.
- Open the Add/Remove Programs control panel, select the desired software, then
click the Add/Remove button.
- Locate the folder containing the software and see if an uninstaller program is
provided there for that specific software.
Uninstalling a program manually like by just deleting the program's main folder
will leave the program's entries in the Windows Registry, likely leave many .dll
(and other) files lying about, and may leave processes running in "in the background"
no longer needed, all of which can slow your machine down.
- Take out programs that run at start-up and/or "in the background."
- You can see some programs that run at startup by looking in the Start | Programs
| Startup program group.
- You can see all programs currently running by pressing Ctrl+Alt+Delete. In the
dialog window that appears, you'll see the programs you have open, plus all those
running in background. Clicking on the End Task button temporarily (until the next
restart) shuts down the selected program. This can be useful to see if certain background
operations are slowing you down. Warning: But this can be dangerous, if you do
not know what each of these background processes are. Explorer, at least, needs to
be there.
- Cleanup the Windows Registry. The Registry stores core information about
all the software on your hard disk and can become corrupted or filled with old information
about programs no longer on your computer. To fix that, it is recommended to repair
it with a good registry repair program, such as:
- Rebuild the Windows Registry. As mentioned, the Registry stores core information
about all the software on your hard disk and can become corrupted or filled with
old information. If it's damaged badly enough, the best (an perhaps only) way to
fix that is to:
- back up your entire hard disk
- completely reformat it
- reinstall Windows
- reinstall all software applications from their CD or floppy disks
- restore all data from the backup
This rewrites all the disk catalog and registry information, and removes all unneeded
files left over from programs no longer on the computer. This clear a lot of problems
and speeds up the computer. This is a big step, and should be only done if recommended
by a computer technician or other expert. And it should be done, or
assisted, by an expert.
B. Defragment and Optimize Your
Hard Disk
As you add and remove files on the hard disk, the files get fragmented (split into
pieces) and scattered around on various locations on the hard disk media. This is
transparent to you, the user, thanks to the OS (operation system). But it's a good
idea to occasionally (at least once every three months) defragment and optimize the
files on your hard disk. Defragmentation rewrites each file in one continuous group
of disk sectors. Optimization relocates the files to the optimum location on the
disk based on file type. Both of these will improve the speed of your hard disk.
It also helps to minimize certain types of freezes and crashes, and other odd behavior.
Before you perform the defragmentation and optimization process on your hard disk,
it is imperative that you:
- Disable any type of security or password software
- Run any disk repair utilities you have, being sure to scan the disk media for
bad sectors or blocks (See Run Disk Repair Utility Software
above.)
- Back up the entire hard disk, or at the very least, your important documents.
This process moves ALL or most the files on the hard disk, so if there's any problem,
you will need a complete backup to recover from. You should already be performing
a back-up, anyway.
Before you defragment your disk, now is a good time to remove any unneeded software,
and clean up other files you no longer need.
Be sure to read the documentation that comes with the defragmentation and optimization
program you are using beforehand for other important considerations. Most claim to
be pretty safe like if there's a power outage during the process...!
MACs
There are currently (03/2003) three defragmentation and optimization programs
available:
WINDOWS PCs
Windows PC's come with a defragmentation and optimization utility called Disk
Defragmenter available in the Start | Programs | Accessories | System Tools menu.
Third-party utilities are also available, such as Norton
Utilities from Symantec,
which usually offer more features and capabilities. Windows Vista defragments automatically
in the background.
As mentioned above, be sure to run any disk repair utilities you have, being sure
to scan the disk media for bad sectors or blocks. For most people, this means running
ScanDisk in Thorough mode. See Run Disk Repair Utility Software
above.
To make sure no other programs are running while using Disk Defragmenter, you may
want o start up in Safe Mode first. (See How
to restart Windows 9x or Windows Me in Safe Mode for details.) When finished
in Safe Mode, restart your computer to use all your normal software.
C. Add As Much Memory (RAM) As Possible
RAM (Random Access Memory) is not the same as hard disk space. Though both are measured
in megabytes (mB), RAM is temporary storage for a program being "run".
Hard disk space is permanent storage. When you open a document (which runs a program),
it's read from the hard disk into RAM. When you save a document, a copy is read from
RAM and written to the hard disk.
Adding more memory makes your computer happy! It gives the OS (operating system)
more "breathing room," and your computer is much less likely to freeze
or crash. With today's Web browsers, that's essential! Adding memory makes the browsers
happier, too. Even though the added RAM may not be used specifically by the browser,
it still prevents the computer from crashing or freezing as often while in the browser.
Adding RAM is a cheap and easy way to speed up and improve your system. RAM is
quite inexpensive compared to just a few years ago. Five years ago, it was as high
as $50/mB! Now, it's about $2/mB. .
Having lots of memory increases the resale value of your computer when you move
up to a new one. And adding more now is a good idea in case the price of memory goes
back up again.
MACs
Adding more RAM can speed up your Mac noticably. Most Macs can take at least 36
mB (megabytes) of RAM, and the newer ones can take much more. Having more RAM also
allows you to run more programs at once, as well as open more and/or larger documents
within a program. And your Mac is much less likely to crash or freeze up on you.
It is recommended to upgrade to at least 32 mB (megabytes), and 64 mB is better
yet.
WINDOWS PCs
Having more RAM on a PC speeds up your computer significantly. It is recommended
to upgrade to at least 32 mB (megabytes), and 64 mB is better yet.
D. Cautions When Using Email
Please share these tips with others. If everyone practices these, it can do a
lot to prevent bad, incorrect, hoax, junk, and virus email in the future.
Monitor Incoming Email
Please see Preventative Measures in the Run
Anti-virus Software section above for many tips on preventing viruses from spreading,
many of which include monitoring your incoming email.
Do Not Unsubscribe
One should NEVER click on the Unsubscribe link at the bottom of spam email (unless
you knowingly signed up for a legitimate mailing list or email newsletter, and you
recognize the sender of the message.) Spammers are not always honest people and are
very happy when you click on the Unsubscribe link because it tells them they have
a live email address. They have no intention of stopping to that email address but,
in fact, just the opposite. And they may sell the address to other spammers. Clicking
on the Unsubscribe link may greatly increase the amount of junk mail one receives.
Two Email Accounts
Consider having two email accounts. Keep your main email address as a personal
one that you only give out to selected family, friends, and co-workers. Remind them
to never give out this address, and always use BCC when sending to more that one
person so it's not shared with others. ... Get a second email account and use it
for online ordering and any other time an email address is requested online. Ideally,
only the second account will get all the junk email. When that happens, delete it,
and get a new secondary account.
In Outlook Express:
- Do not archive mail in default Outlook Express folders, as they can eventually
become corrupt. Store saved mail in folders you create.
- Keep user created folders under 100MB.
- Empty the Deleted Items folder regularly.
- Compact all folders regularly.
Cautions When Sending Email:
1. Verify Before Sending
Before sending out an email to others about something you were emailed claiming
to be true, PLEASE, PLEASE check it out on the Internet BEFORE sending these out.
Many emailings being passed around these days are hoaxes, urban legends, myths, rumors,
or have the facts wrong. (These can be claims about viruses, cancer, lost kids, Neiman
Marcus cookies... there are 1000's of them!)
I recommend going to Google and putting in a
few keywords from the emailing and the word: hoax You'll be surprised how many are
hoaxes, or have bad information in them. Other places to check include www.snopes.com
and urbanlegends.about.com.
If you find out something was a hoax, please respond to the person that sent you
the hoax and let them know, and remind them to tell all the people to which they
sent the original message.
2. Use BCC (Blind Carbon Copy)
When sending to a group of people, never use TO or CC, always use BCC (blind carbon
copy). Here's why...
- Everyone has to scroll through a long list of recipient addresses to see your
message. (A minor issue, but if these messages get passed around, that list can become
very, very long).
- It violates everyone's privacy to share all those addresses with everyone else.
Now they all know the address of everyone you sent to. You better hope no one on
the recipient list wanted to keep their address private...!
- When folks sending junk mail get a hold of list of addresses like this, they
love it ... lots of legit email addresses to sell and send junk mail! Junk mailers
may also use any name and address on the list to FORGE an email address in their
mass mailings.
- If ANYONE on this list gets a virus, it's very likely everyone on the recipient
list would then be sent the virus, too, via email! Viruses may also use any name
and address on the list to FORGE an email address in their mass mailings.
If you do not know how to use BCC in your email program, please find out how
consult the email program's manual or help system, ask a friend, family member, teacher,
coworker, computer tech, any "kid" who knows how to use a computer, etc.
3. Remove email addresses when forwarding
For the same reasons as using BCC, when forwarding mail, be sure to strip out
all the previous email addresses. If you cannot do this, or do not now how, copy
the part of the forwarded message you want to send, and paste it into a new email
message.
Do your best to clean up poorly formatted message. If a message is worth sending
and sharing with others, it's worrth cleaning up.
4. Use Plain Text Formatting
Due to the growing number of email filters that are rejecting email based on the
HTML content (due to the possibility of a virus embedded in the code or being spam
(junk mail)) I also now recommend folks not use any HTML formatting in their messages
instead, switch to all plain text messages. I used to recommend folks not use formatted
messages years ago because not email programs could read formatted messages properly.
Although this no longer true for modern email programs, there's now an even better
reason to Keep It Simple protection against viruses and further junk mail. And
this will help ensure all recipients will be able to receive and read your mail.
5. Do Not Sign Email Petitions
Email petition states a position and asks you to add your
name and address and to forward it on to many people. This type of ail can collect
thousands of names and email addresses. A FACT: The completed petition is actually
worth money to professional spammers because of the large number of valid names and
email addresses.
DO NOT put your email address on any petition. If you want to support the
petition, send it as your own personal letter to the intended recipient. Your position
may carry more weight as a personal letter than a laundry list of names and email
address on a petition.
6. Be courteous to your recipients
Do your best to clean up poorly formatted message. If a message is worth sending
and sharing with others, it's worrth cleaning up. Remove any
extraneous content, and send only the pertinent part of the message.
Be aware of if your recipients have a high or low speed Internet connection can
they (or do they want to) receive emails with large attachments?
If sending a video, see if you can send just the Web address (like from YouTube)
instead of sending the hige video file. Go to www.YouTube.com and enter a few keywords, like the subject of video, or the type
of video (Norweigan airline ad, for example) to see if it's there. Also, try searching
for it at Google. Popular videos will be "all over" the Web.
For emails that you want to forwrd that contain many popular photographs, also search
Google (or other good search engine) to see if you can find a Web page with the photos.
Then send just the Web page address, not the photos themselves.
E. Install A Junk Mail (Spam)
Filter
Many of today's better ISPs offer a spam (junk mail) filter, usually for free or
a small monthly fee. Postini is a common filter
that also finds some viruses. Brightmail
is used by many national ISPs.
If your ISP does not offer a junk mail filter, or even if it does, you may want something
one your computer to combat junk mail. Some email programslike, Apple's Mail and
Microsoft's Outlook offer built in spam filtering.
There are also many thrid-party anti-spam programs available that you can install
and run on your own computer.
MACs
Recommended Macintosh spam filters are:
WINDOWS PCs
Some recommended Windows spam filters are:
Note: Norton's AntiSpam (2005, anyway) may greatly slow down all aspects of using
your email program.
Please sure to see the Cautions When Using Email section
above for tips to help prevent bad, incorrect, hoax, junk, and virus email in the
future.
III. General Tips
A. Upgrading OS's (Operating
Systems)
Many of you ask if you should install a newer or the latest version of the OS (operating
system, Mac: Mac OS; Windows PCs: Windows OS). I am usually very cautious about that.
The new OSs usually requires more memory (RAM) and can be slower than previous versions.
And MOST of the time you will also need to upgrade certain aspects of your other
software, such as:
- Hard disk device software
- Peripheral software for things like:
- Printers
- Modems
- Scanners
- ZIP drive or other removable or third-party devices
- CD-Rs and CD-RWs
- Application Software
- Utility Software
- Control Panels
- System Extensions
- Internet Software
- Games
- Any other third-party software
You can count on having to upgrade at least some of these. And some software may
not be upgradable, or have an upgrade available, so you may lose its capability.
And some software may not even run under the new OS
Just finding out which software needs to be upgraded can be a big chore. You may
find out only after several crashes and conflict resolutions what software is the
cause.
NOTE: I'm using the term upgrade rather loosely. Typically upgrade means a
major improvement in software versions, and update means a minor one. So some
of the upgrades I mention may really be updates.
You may have specific software or hardware needs which require you to move to the
new OS. At other times, you may have to upgrade your hardware when you move to a
new OS. So it can be a never-ending circle.
Some people stay with a particular OS for YEARS! This is OK, if you never want to
communicate or share files with the rest of the world, or use the latest software
or hardware.
MACs
If all is working well for you with your current OS, usually there is not a compelling
reason to upgrade to the new OS. There may be a few new bells and whistles, but often
not a major difference in capabilities. Sometimes there are major bug fixes in a
new OS. If you are having lots of problems with your current OS, it may be that upgrading
is just what you need to move to a more stable OS. But any new OS can introduce its
own NEW bugs.
If you do upgrade OS's, be sure to wait for version x.0.1 or x.0.2. I would not
recommend moving to any x.0.0 version. (Note: the can also apply to minor upgrades,
as well, such as 8.5 wait for 8.5.1.) It's likely to have too many problems and
bugs. It could even be dangerous! OS 8.5 appears to be such and animal. Let others
test this out, then you can benefit from the improved version when it comes out.
Before you upgrade, look for lists of known problems and incompatibilities with the
OS your are considering so you will know beforehand of what to expect and what software
you'll need to upgrade. Look for such lists at Apple,
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